February 11, 2010

New Molds Just Listed – February Issue of My Molds!

My Molds Newsletter

News that Inspires Imagination! – By MadAboutMolds.com

February Issue 2010

The Preferred Place for Clay Push Molds

Over 955 Clay Push Molds to Choose From Today!

When it comes to service, we break the mold!

See what our molds look like.

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In this issue:

l Announcements

l New Molds Just Listed

l Tips & Tricks

l This Month’s Article: How to Use Precious Metal Clay in Jewelry Making.

Hello Crafter,

Well it’s been awhile, but they are now here! 30 New Molds for you to choose from, and they are worth taking a look at, so be sure to check them out below. February is a very creative month, so hurry up and get your molds out, there’s still time to show your love! Think about making cup-cake picks that your kids will love to give to their friends. Or make some 3D Valentine’s cards that will be treasured all year. Or let your kids make goodies for their friends. There’s lot of ideas in our Gallery on our website. It’s a great place to get some inspiration to get started.

We have a lot to tell you about this month. From new molds to new information, there’s lots to read about, so sit back and enjoy this issue of My Molds!

Until next time,

Marjorie with Mad About Molds

Announcements:

We have listed many new molds in our Mold Outlet.

Why Buy from our Outlet?

· To sample molds at a discount.

· So the kids can have fun with you!

· To experiment with your favorite castings.

See our Mold Outlet here.

New Molds Just Listed

You can purchase our new molds here!

Tips & Tricks:

Release Agents

Sometimes, as when using a mold, polymer clay tends to stick where it shouldn't. Remembering to use a release agent makes life much easier.

The following list includes just some of the release agents polymer clay artists and hobbyists have used:

Water-- This is the cheapest alternative and a favorite, because it won't build up in crevices like other agents do. Water works especially well for detailed molds. Water is a good release for Premo and Sculpey, but isn't generally recommended for Fimo and Cernit, which absorb moisture.

Cornstarch is a popular choice. It usually washes right off with cool water, though you may want to let the piece cool before rinsing it.

Baby powder is another alternative. However, some people think that this leaves a residue, even after washing. Residue, if there is any, can be sanded or buffed away.

Baking soda may help control odors during curing.

Mica powders, embossing powders, and powdered chalk can be used, too, though they generally cost more than the other alternatives.

Potato starch, rice flour, and arrowroot powder and other powdered food products may serve as release agents, as well.

Glycerin-- This can be useful for casting detailed items. Another benefit of using glycerin is that it doesn't affect surface treatments on the clay (like paint or Pearl-Ex).

Armor-all-- This product is silicone-based. Nothing will stick to it. While this makes it a good mold release, it can complicate things if you want to add surface treatments (including Future or Varathane) to the clay, afterwards.

Petroleum-based release agents-- Vaseline or mineral oil are sometimes used. Don't use these products with latex molds, however, because they will react with the mold and destroy it.

Don't let Clay burn (obviously)

As long as clay is baked at the correct temperature, there are no unusual "fumes" to worry about. You may notice a slight smell, but this is normal. If it bothers you, or if you do a lot of curing, you may want to cure out of doors or use a vented oven. If nothing else, you can open windows while you bake.

It is when clay is cured at excessive temperatures that it burns and releases those "toxic fumes" you've probably heard of. These fumes are hydrochloride gas (or "hydrochloric acid gas"), and while that sounds scary-and they're certainly not something you want to produce when curing clay-the fact is that it has no chronic effect. The gas can irritate mucus membranes, causing stinging eyes, nose, and throat, but once you've turned off the oven and left the area (until the gases have dissipated), you should begin to feel better and have no lasting ill-effects.

And if you are careful, you should never have to worry about "toxic fumes" at all.

1. To avoid burning clay, it is crucial that you get an oven thermometer. The thermostats of most home ovens and toaster ovens are "off"-some by fifty degrees (Fahrenheit) or more. As anyone who bakes can tell you, no two ovens are exactly the same, so it is important that you know how your own oven(s) work. Carefully gauge the temperature to avoid burnt clay.

2. If your oven has an exposed heating element, try to keep your clay away from it. When the heating element comes on, the temperature inside the oven can spike-especially right next to the element.

3. Be sure to notice if any cured clay has been left in the oven or fallen to the bottom of the oven. If it has, remove it immediately, before you forget that it's there. This is especially important if you use your oven for other things and will be baking at higher temperatures, later on.

Don't put uncured clay on any unprotected surface-furniture, tables, countertops, rugs, or floors-because the clay can ruin them. Always work on a clay-dedicated surface. (A ceramic tile is the general favorite.) Once clay is cured, you may put it wherever you like.

The rule of thumb with polymer clay is that once anything (knife, cheese grater, pasta machine, cutting board, food processor, container, etc.) has come into contact with the RAW clay, it should be "clay-dedicated". This means that you shouldn't use it again with food.

Using Clay Around Babies

Follow those safety guidelines. Be sure to wash clay off your hands before handling the baby. You may also want to look at ways to make the baking process safer. Using a toaster oven in your craft room is fine, but you may want to move it to a separate part of the house if you are pregnant.

Clay Storage

Never store cured clay with uncured clay. The plasticizers will leach back into the cured clay and cause it to weaken and possibly break.

As long as clay is completely wrapped, it is safe to store in any type of container.

Unwrapped clay won't dry out, but wrapping keeps airborne particles from sticking to the clay, which seems to act as a dust magnet. If you like, you can leave uncured clay on your work surface with just a sheet of plastic wrap draped over it to keep it clean.

Wrapping clay makes it easier to store in a compact place without the different colors of clays touching. (This can lead to color transfer between blocks of clay.)

Some people find that certain tackle boxes, in particular, don't react to clay, which makes it possible to store unwrapped clay or canes very easily.

Glass or metal containers are fine for storing raw polymer clay.

This Month’s Article:

How to Use Precious Metal Clay in Jewelry Making

Precious metal clay (brand names are PMC and Art Clay) is modern-day alchemy. PMC is a clay base with tiny pieces of silver suspended within it that, when heated, burns off the clay leaving a solid silver residue. The clay base acts as a binder for the metal particles. Once this has been removed, the remaining silver particles bind together, giving you the finished product.

The real beauty of precious metal clay is that it can be manipulated like any ordinary modeling clay, making it perfect for jewelry making. The modern precious metal clay can be using a jeweler’s torch, as the firing temperature is much lower than the early versions of this clay.

Precious Metal Clay once had a very bad reputation for shrinkage, making it unsuitable for fine work or detail. Modern precious metal clays have a much lower shrinkage rate (around 10-15%), but you still need to factor this into the final piece to ensure that really fine detail is not lost in the firing process.

Once fired, the silver piece will seem very lackluster and dull, so it will need finishing. The dull matt surface hides the real beauty underneath, so finishing and polishing will reveal the shining silver below. When soldering finished precious metal clay pieces it is essential to remember that the surface will be more porous than standard sterling silver, so it is best to burnish the piece prior to soldering. But because it is almost pure silver there is little risk of fire stain on the surface and the final results are almost indistinguishable from sterling silver.

Because precious metal clay is a clay, it takes impressions very well. A design can be pressed onto the surface of the clay and be revealed in the final silver piece. Patterned rollers, lace or even leaves can be used to create unique effects that are difficult to reproduce in ordinary silver unless it has been cast. Precious metal clay is a popular way of making silver beads. The clay can be formed into beads, decorated with a surface pattern and then fired quickly and easily, producing high quality silver beads.

Precious metal clay is an ideal medium to work in if you want to create pieces of silver jewelry that are unique to you. The only thing that limits you is your imagination. Precious metal silver clay is widely available from good craft suppliers. There are two main brands. Precious Metal Clay and Art Clay Silver. The clay is also available in other metals including gold, but the cost is significantly higher than the silver clay.

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